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On　the　day　after　leaving　Vera　Cruz　we　reached　Frontera；　at　the　mouth　of　a　great　stream　that　I　think　was　named　the　Tobasco　River。　Frontera　was　a　village　with　a　long　wide　street　of　which　the　population　appeared　to　me　to　show　many　traces　of　white　blood。　It　was　a　horrible　hole。　The　inn；　if　it　could　be　so　called；　in　which　we　slept；　if　I　remember　right；　stood　partly　on　piles　in　the　water　like　a　lake　dwelling；　in　the　garden　or　yard　great　hogs　rummaged；　while　vultures　sat　upon　the　railing　of　the　verandah。　Mosquitoes　buzzed　about　by　millions；　and　the　face　of　the　boy　who　waited　on　us　was　covered　with　open　sores；　resulting；　I　was　told；　from　fever。　Many　of　the　children；　also；　were　fever…stricken；　since　here　malaria　seemed　to　have　a　favourite　home。　Only　the　great　river；　with　its　palm…clad　banks；　was　beautiful。
On　the　following　day　we　started　up　this　river；　lying　in　a　canoe　towed　by　a　naphtha　launch；　in　which　canoe　we　slept；　or　tried　to　sleep；　all　night。　Never　in　all　my　life　—　no；　not　even　at　Tiberias　on　the　Sea　of　Galilee　—　did　I　meet　with　so　many　or　such　ferocious　mosquitoes！　I　tied　my　trousers　and　my　sleeves　round　my　ankles　and　wrists　with　string；　but　they　bit　through　the　cloth；　and　when　I　looked　in　the　morning　where　the　dogskin　gloves　ended　on　the　wrists　were　great　bracelets　of　white　bumps。　Then　there　were　little　grey　flies　called　gehenn；　or　some　such　name；　which　were　worse　than　the　mosquitoes；　since　the　effect　of　their　bites　lasted　for　days；　and；　when　one　went　ashore；　garrapatas　or　tiny　ticks　that　buried　themselves　in　the　flesh　and；　if　removed；　left　their　heads　behind　them。　Perhaps　these　were　the　greatest　torments　of　the　three。　Altogether　the　banks　of　the　Tobasco　River　cannot　be　remended　as　a　place　of　residence。
In　due　course　we　arrived　at　a　town　called　St。　Juan　Bautista；　where　we　stopped　for　a　night　or　two　with　some　Mexicans　who　had　an　interest　in　the　mine　we　were　to　visit。　They　were　kind　in　their　way；　but　what　I　chiefly　recollect　about　the　place　are　the　remains　of　an　ox　that　had　been　slaughtered　within　a　yard　or　two　of　the　verandah；　just　beyond　a　beautiful　Hibiscus　bush　in　flower；　and　some　soup　posed　apparently　of　oil　in　which　livid　cocksbs　bobbed　up　and　down。　Thence　we　proceeded　up　the　river　in　the　naphtha　launch；　of　which　the　machinery　continually　broke　down。　This　was　the　pleasantest　part　of　the　journey。
At　length；　leaving　the　launch；　we　came　to　a　village　of　which　the　name　escapes　me；　a　straggling　place　whereof　the　central　street　was　paved　with　rough　cobbles。　Here　we　slept　in　a　house　belonging　to　some　lady　who　was　a　great　personage　in　the　village；　and　beautifully　situated　upon　a　cliff　at　the　foot　of　which　ran　a　sparkling　river　that　reminded　me　of　a　salmon　stream　in　Scotland。　Here　also　Jebb　and　I　very　narrowly　escaped　being　murdered。　It　came　about　thus：
We　had　in　our　charge　a　mule…load　of　silver　of　the　value　of　three　thousand　dollars；　which　we　were　conveying　to　a　mine　whither　went　more　bullion　than　ever　came　out　of　it。　The　knowledge　of　our　possession　of　this　treasure　came　to　the　ears　of　the　inhabitants　of　this　place；　among　whom　were　a　goodly　proportion　of　brigands　and　cut…throats　and；　as　we　discovered　afterwards；　some　of　these　made　a　plot　to　kill　us　and　steal　the　silver。　It　happened　that　Jebb　and　I　were　alone　in　the　house　of　which　I　have　spoken；　save；　I　think；　for　the　widow　lady　and　one　or　two　Indian　servants　who　slept　in　a　different　part　of　the　big　place。　Our　rooms　（mine　was　half　filled　with　Indian　corn）　were　at　either　end　of　a　large　eating…chamber　which　overlooked　the　valley。　They　were　fitted　with　latchless　or　broken　French　windows。　The　plan　of　attack　was；　as　someone　confessed　afterwards；　to　climb　up　a　sloping　wall　built　of　loose　stones；　kill　us　with　machetes；　find　where　the　silver　might　be　（as　a　matter　of　fact　it　was　under　Jebb’s　bed）　and　retire　with　the　spoil。　As　police　were　lacking　and　our　own　folk　were　camped　at　a　distance；　in　the　Mexico　of　those　days　this　scheme　seemed　easy　of　acplishment；　since　two　men　surprised　at　night　could　not　have　done　much　against　a　band　of　armed　assassins。
About　midnight　an　attempt　was　made　to　put　it　into　operation。　The　robbers　arrived　and　began　to　climb　the　wall；　afterwards　we　saw　their　footprints　on　the　mosses　and　the　displaced　stones。　For　some　reason；　however；　Jebb　was　suspicious　and；　when　he　was　disturbed　by　the　furious　barking　of　the　dogs　belonging　to　the　house；　he　rose　and　went　to　the　boltless　window；　whence　he　overheard　the　thieves　whispering　together　at　the　bottom　of　the　wall。　I　also　was　awakened　by　the　barking　of　the　dogs；　but；　after　making　sure　that　my　pistol　was　at　hand　under　my　pillow；　went　to　sleep　again。　For　the　rest　of　the　story　I　will　quote　what　I　wrote　in　my　introduction　to　Mrs。　Jebb’s　Life　of　her　husband：
Retreating　to　the　bed　he　＇i。e。　Jebb＇　seated　himself　on　the　edge　of　it；　holding　a　wax　match　in　one　hand　and　his　long…barrelled　Colt　cocked　in　the　other。　This　was　his　plan：　to　wait　till　he　heard　the　thieves　push　open　the　French　windows；　then　to　strike　the　match　（for　the　night　was　pitch　dark）；　and　by　its　light　to　fire　at　them　over　it　before　they　could　attack　him。
For　a　long　while　he　sat　thus；　and　twice　he　heard　the　loose　stones　dropping　as　his　assailants　began　to　climb　up　the　wall　beneath　the　window；　but　on　each　occasion　they　were　frightened　by　the　clamour　of　the　dogs；　which　at　length　grew　so　loud　that；　thinking　our　Indian　servants；　who　slept　at　a　distance　from　the　house；　would　be　aroused；　the　thieves　took　to　flight　without　the　dollars；　leaving　nothing　but　some　footprints　behind　them。
“And　why　did　you　not　e　and　wake　me？”　I　asked　when　he　had　finished　his　tale。
“Oh！”　he　answered；　“I　nearly　did　so；　but　I　knew　that　you　were　very　tired；　also　there　was　no　use　in　both　of　us　handing　in　our　checks；　for　there　were　a　dozen　of　those　devils；　and；　had　they　got　into　the　room；　they　would　have　made　a　clean　sweep　of　us。”
I　did　not　make　any　reply；　but　I　remember　thinking；　and　I　still　think；　that　this　conduct　showed　great　courage　and　great　unselfishness　on　the　part　of　Mr。　Jebb。　Most　people　would　have　retreated　at　the　first　alarm；　but　this；　with　the　utter　fearlessness　which　was　one　of　his　characteristics；　he　did　not　do；　since　the　dollars　in　his　charge　were　too　heavy　to　carry；　and；　before　men　could　be　found　to　assist　him；　they　would　have　been　secured　by　the　robbers；　who　knew　well　where　to　look　for　them。　In　the　rare　event；　however；　of　the　supply　of　personal　pluck　proving　equal　to　such　an　occasion；　how　many　of　us；　for　the　reasons　given；　having　a　well…armed　white　panion　at　hand；　would　have　neglected　to　summon　him　to　take　his　part　in　the　fray？　A　man　must　be　very　brave　and　very　unselfish　indeed　to　choose　to　face　a　band　of　Mexican　cut…throats　when　a　word　would　bring　a　rade　to　his　side。
I　may　add　that　his　conduct　was　foolish　as　well　as　unselfish；　since　in　such　a　business　two　can　fire　quicker　than　one。　Also　the　sound　of　his　first　shot　would　of　course　have　wakened　me　with　the　result　that　I　should　have　rushed；　bewildered　and　unprepared；　into　the　fray　and　probably　have　been　cut　down　before　I　understood　the　situation。
However；　as　it　happened；　we　escaped；　thanks　to　that　noble　animal；　the　dog。　So　did　the　cold…blooded　villains　who　had　planned　our　murder　in　order　to　enrich　themselves。
What　a　land　of　bloodshed　Mexico　has　been；　is　still；　in　this　year　of　revolution；　and　some　prophetic　spirit　tempts　me　to　add；　shall　be！　The　curse　of　the　bloody　Aztec　gods　seems　to　rest　upon　its　head。　There；　from　generation　to　generation；　blood　calls　for　blood。　And　yet；　if　only　it　were　inhabited　by　some　righteous　race；　what　a　land　it　might　be　with　its　richness　and　its　beauty！　For　my　part；　I　believe　that　it　would　be　well　for　it　if　it　should　pass　into　the　power　of　the　United　States。
From　this　place　of　a　forgotten　name　we　proceeded　to　the　mine　on　mules。　It　was　a　fearful　journey；　but　how　long　it　took　to　acplish　I　cannot　remember。　For　the　first　part　of　it　the　road；　if　it　could　be　called　a　road；　consisted　of　a　kind　of　corduroy　of　little　ridges　with　mud…holes　of　from　one　to　three　feet　deep　between　them；　which　had　been　gradually　hollowed　out　by　the　feet　of　mules；　the　ridges　being　those　portions　of　the　ground　on　which　these　did　not　tread。　As　heavy　rains　had　fallen　and；　indeed；　were　still　falling；　the　pleasures　of　such　a　ride　may　well　be　imagined。　Once　we　stopped　at　a　hacienda　where　there　was　a　cocoa　plantation　that　I　was　told　produced　a　great　deal　of　money　in　that　fertile　soil。　I　shall　never　forget　the　place；　or　at　least　the　impression　it　produced　upon　me。　In　a　long　low　room　a　fat　half…breed；　its　owner；　was　swinging　in　a　hammock；　or　rather　being　swung　by　Indian　girls。　Terrible　stories　were　told　of　such　men　and　their　poor　Indian　slaves　in　these　remote　places；　for　in　practice　slaves　they　still　remained；　especially　with　reference　to　young　women　who　grew　up　upon　their　estates。　Whether　things　have　bettered　since　that　day　I　do　not　know；　but；　if　certain　works　that　I　have　read　are　true；　I　gather　that　in　such　matters　they　remain　much　the　same　as　they　were　two　hundred　years　ago。
After　the　corduroy　road　plains　we　passed　into　the　mountains　where；　by　the　hollowing　action　of　water；　the　tracks　had　been　reduced　to　a　kind　of　ditch　floored　with　a　butter　of　red　clay。　Here　there　were　precipices；　along　the　edges　of　which　we　ambled。　One　spot　remains　firmly　fixed　upon　my　mind。　The　path　along　the　precipice　had　been　broken　away　and　a　new　one　made　a　little　further　up　the　hillside。　When　we　reached　the　place　I　tried　to　turn　my　mule　to　this　upper　path。　But　the　wooden…mouthed　brute　was　of　a　different　opinion。　Baggage　mules；　I　should　explain；　always　prefer　the　edge　of　a　precipice；　because　their　burdens　are　less　likely　to　be　knocked　by　projecting　rocks　or　other　mules。　Therefore；　this　beast　that　I　rode　insisted　upon　taking　the　lower　path。　The　natural　result　followed：　we　began　to　descend　the　red　butter　slide　with　great　rapidity。　There　was　neither　time　nor　room　to　dismount。　All　appeared　to　be　over；　since　a　few　yards　in　front；　the　path　having；　as　I　said；　been　washed　away；　was　empty　space。　However；　just　in　time；　the　mule　itself　awoke　to　the　situation。　I　presume　that　its　inherited　experience　told　it　that　to　be　dashed　to　pieces　is　not　agreeable。　At　any　rate　it　put　on　some　kind　of　vacuum　brake　of　its　own；　with　the　result　that　we　pulled　up　at　the　extremest　edge　of　nothingness；　indeed；　it　seemed　to　me　that　when　our　slide　came　to　its　end　all　the　creature’s　four　feet　were　gathered　in　a　round　that　might　have　been　covered　by　a　Mexican　priest’s　hat。　Afterwards　that　same　mule；　the　most　inpetent　surely　of　all　its　kind；　fell　with　me　in　the　midst　of　a　flooded　river。
Another　such　river　we　were　obliged　to　cross　seated　in　a　loop　of　string　which　was　slung　upon　a　rope；　quite　an　exciting　mode　of　progression。　Upon　the　occasion　of　Mr。　Jebb’s　previous　visit　to　this　mine　either　the　loop　or　the　rope　broke；　and　the　cook　who　was　making　the　journey　went　to　a　watery　grave。
We　slept　a　night　in　a　saw…mill　that　had　been　established　by　the　mining　pany　upon　the　banks　of　a　great　river。　I　remember　that　at　dawn　I　went　to　bathe　in　this　river；　and　was　struck　with　the　marvellous　beauty　of　the　scene。　The　face　of　the　water　was　covered　with　clouds　of　floating　mist；　while　above；　rising　in　tiers　from　the　steep　banks　of　the　river；　appeared　the　motionless；　solemn　trees。　And　then　the　indescribable　silence　and　the　utter　loneliness。　The　great　primeval　forest　beyond　this　river　was　very　wonderful；　at　any　rate　to　me　who　had　never　seen　its　like。　Here　grew　vast　trees　with　rib…like　roots　that　ran　far　up　the　trunk；　and　between　the　trees　imperable　thickets　of　Indian　Shot　—　Canna；　I　think；　is　the　right　name　—　twenty　feet　and　more　in　height。　When　the　Indians　wish　to　grow　a　crop　of　maize　they　burn　a　patch　of　this　Canna　scrub　and　sow　the　seed　in　the　rich　ash…fertilised　soil；　where　it　bears　abundantly。
These　Indians　of　remoter　Mexico　are　strange；　sad　creatures　whose　demeanour　suggests　that　the　woes　and　wickedness　heaped　upon　their　forefathers　by　the　cruel　Spaniards　have　never　faded　from　the　minds　of　the　descendants。　In　body　they　are　handsome　and　often　stately；　but　their　souls　seem　crushed。　Now　they；　whose　race　once　was　free　and　great；　as　the　mighty　ruins　show；　are　but　hewers　of　wood　and　drawers　of　water　whom　the　white　man　kills　if　they　venture　to　cross　his　desire。　On　the　narrow　mountain　paths　or　in　the　depths　of　the　vast　forests　the　traveller